So really I thought I would start with the most basic method of hand painting textures that I know of and that’s just making a basic model in a 3d modeler program (maya, in this case). From there I will take a snapshot of the UVs and paint in the texture in Photoshop.
However, since I really had no clue what some tips and tricks of how to go about designing models and then painting them were (yes, even rocks), the first thing i did was go find tutorials to watch.
After google searching how to hand paint 3D objects, i came across a tutorial on Udemy.com called “Hand Painted Weapon”. Its a tutorial by Tyson Murphy (lucky for me, someone who used to work on World of Warcraft), that I took a bunch of notes from which ill post here;
“Hand Painted Weapon – by Tyson Murphy
Maya, Photoshop
Tools
- Create Polygon tool
- Multicut tool
- Insert edgeloop
- Merge
- Mirror
- Collapse
- Extrude
Modelling
- As low poly as possible
- Outline silhouette
- Include edges -> raise them out for depth
- Mirror Half of objects, saves texture space
UVS
- Keep uvs economical, uv space used as widely as possible
- Set up so its easy to paint *MOST IMPORTANT* is ease of painting
- Align uvs to straight lines (align tool edges)
- This saves space and makes it easier to paint
- Smooth Uvs, relax/unfold
- Don’t overlap some things; light affects them differently if they are in different areas from each other (example, little spikes on sword)
- Little bit of stretching is ok when its on a non focal point, and is going to be mostly hidden
- Keep shells in direction object faces
- Small objects can be a little bigger for ease of painting, wont notice texel density difference on smaller objects
- Allows for more detail to be seen anyway
- Don’t place objects too close together, paint will bleed onto other shells
- Add uvs as material in maya and turn up ambient light so you can see how your painted texture is working without default lighting
Painting
- Take uvs to photoshop
- Invert layer
- Blend mode to multiply
- Select empty space, invert (so all islands are selected), fill islands,
- Then go to Select, Modify, Expand (by 5 pixels)
- This allows space around your island selections so your edges don’t show in-engine
- New Layer underneath Uvs, fill with warm gray
- Add psd file to maya model so you can update regularly and see how it looks in 3D
Setting up Brush
- Use normal, round hard brush
- Pressure sensitivity -> pen pressure, minimum diameter ~45% (so brush doesn’t get too small when painting lightly)
- Use Mask Layer to keep w/in border
- Control H to hide selection ants, keeps object selected
- Uv layer opacity low, so lines don’t get in the way (~20%)
Values
- Use values to trick mind it’s a 3D object
- Think up imaginary light source, with a sword its easy to use top-down
- Planes facing light – lighter, facing dark – darker
- Blend as you go using eyedropper, or can use smudge tool
- Use darker colours first for awhile to bring out base values
- **Need a large range of value to be able to sell the object as believable**
- Switch to high value light, use navigator to see entire object
- If texture looks good flat, with no lighting, it will look good in game
- If your value changes, you want your hue/saturation to change
- Don’t just change a colour from light, and go straight down to the dark version of it. Change its hue a bit while darkening. Its more realistic and dynamic.
- Don’t value everything the same, imagine LIGHT FALLOFF
- Gives you gradients on same planes. More dynamic
- If your values are wrong/not working, adding details wont help
Edges
- Usually lightest spots
- Highlights are not always where light source is directly hitting first, its offset
- Don’t rely entirely on the colours on the canvas/concept. Sometimes a bit of spontaneity, or splash of colour, is good
- Paint Occlusion
- Darken edges where object meet
- Stay with LOOSE STROKES -> keeps values on point
- Add some wear to edges
Details
- Small, dark brush, add scratches
- Small details are good to further define light source
- Highlight edges of scratches/details
- Smudge dark colours in, looks like dents and it adds colour variation. Highlight lightly
- Make sure not to over detail, keep areas of focus
- Overlay Layers
- Gives variance in highlights (not all highlights are same)
- Multiply Layers
- Gives variance in shadows, darker right next to where light hits
- Add extra bright highlights to increase shine in metal objects (small touches)
- Colour Dodge Layer
- Brings out light areas, pops highlights
- Rough strokes
- You have to guess where objects are sticking in for ambient occlusion/ trial n error
- Filter -> blur -> Gaussian blur
- Some faces would technically be lit the same; still good to slightly change it for variation
Final Touches
Check Forms
Check Highlights
Direct reflection of light source from surface mat to eyes
Highlights located on ~45% angle between viewer and light source
Check Shadows
Define depth
Deep spots get no light; darkest moments
Detail; add more if needed
Bounce Light
Bounce colours between objects to show connection
Looks pretty good to me. Moving forward, I tried to really keep these tips in mind when modeling (low poly), setting up the uv’s (this really matters, as i find out later), and of course painting everything.


